Derelict for more than a decade, the Art Nouveau twin of the Musée d'Art Moderne reemerged in 2002 as a trendy stripped-down space for contemporary arts with unorthodox, ambitious programming. There is no permanent collection; instead, dynamic temporary exhibits spread over a large, open space that's reminiscent of a construction site, with a trailer for a ticket booth. Rather than traditional museum guards, young art students -- most of whom are at least semifluent in English -- are on hand to help explain the installations. As if the art exhibits weren't adventurous enough, the cultural programming extends to debates, DJ-driven concerts, readings, and fashion shows; there are also a cafeteria, a funky restaurant, and a bookstore. COST: EUR6. Métro: Iéna.