Don't be surprised to see speedwalking Parisians slow to a crawl as their eyes lock on an attractive store window. Window shopping is one of this city's greatest spectator sports, and the French have come up with a wonderful expression for this highly cultivated art. They call it lèche-vitrine -- literally, "licking the windows" -- which is quite fitting because many of the displays are good enough to eat.

Truth is, shopping here can be a contagious joy, and if you don't buy something -- bottles of fruit-flavored eaux-de-vie that Hemingway and Fitzgerald loved so much, antique brooches from the 1930s, modern vases crafted from Parisian rooftop-tile zinc, rare artwork -- you're missing out. Who can resist the thrill of seeing a Chanel evening gown displayed in a boutique where even the doorknobs are shaped like Chanel crystal perfume-bottle stoppers?

Happily, the shopping options in Paris are endless and geared to every taste. You can price emerald earrings at Cartier, spend an afternoon browsing through bookstalls along the Seine, tour the high-gloss department stores, or haggle over the price for one of those flea-market "Souvenir de Paris" bracelets. Today, every neighborhood seems to reflect a unique attitude and style: designer extravagance and haute couture characterize avenue Montaigne and rue Faubourg St-Honoré; classic sophistication pervades St-Germain; avant-garde style dresses up the Marais; while a hip feel suffuses the area around the place des Victoires.

In addition, there are the delightful flea markets and brocantes (secondhand shops) where you'll always have the chance of finding Art Deco brooches or old copies of Paris-Match. At such markets, or in antiques stores, bargaining is accepted. So if you're thinking of buying several items, you've nothing to lose by cheerfully suggesting to the proprietor, "Vous me faites un prix?" ("How about a discount?").

Other bits of lingo to keep in mind: braderie or fin de série (clearance); occasions or brocante (secondhand); and nouveautés (new arrivals). Finally, most stores in Paris -- excepting department stores and flea markets -- stay open until 6 or 7 PM, but many take a lunch break sometime between noon and 2 PM. Although shops traditionally close on Sunday, regulations have been relaxed in recent years, and you'll find many stores are open, especially in the Marais.