The venerable Le Marché aux Puces St-Ouen, also referred to as Clignancourt, on Paris's northern boundary, still attracts the crowds when it's open -- Saturday-Monday from 9 to 6 -- but its once-unbeatable prices are now a relic of the past. This century-old labyrinth of alleyways packed with antiques dealers' booths and brocante stalls spreads for more than a square mile. Old Vuitton trunks, ormolu clocks, 1930s jet jewelry, and vintage garden furniture sit cheek by jowl. Arrive early to pick up the most worthwhile loot (like old prints). Be warned -- if there's one place in Paris where you need to know how to bargain, this is it!

If you're arriving by métro, walk under the overpass and take the first left at the rue de Rosiers to reach the epicenter of the market. Around the overpass huddle stands selling dodgy odds-and-ends (think pleather, knockoff shoes, and questionable gadgets). These blocks are crowded and gritty; be careful with your valuables. If you need a breather from the hundreds of market vendors, stop for a bite in one of the rough-and-ready cafés. A particularly good pick is Le Soleil (109 av. Michelet, Paris, France, PHONE: 01-40-10-08-08). Métro: Porte de Clignancourt.