Ladurée, founded in 1862, oozes period atmosphere -- even at the new, large Champs-Élysées branch. But nothing beats the original tearoom on rue Royale, with its pint-size tables and frescoed ceiling. They claim a familial link to the invention of the macaron, and appropriately there's a fabulous selection of these cookies: classics like pistachio, salted caramel, and coffee and, seasonally, violet-black currant, chestnut, and lime-basil. Métro: Madeleine. Other locations: 75 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8, Champs-Élysées, PHONE: 01-40-75-08-57; Métro: George V. 21 rue Bonaparte, 6, Quartier Latin, PHONE: 01-44-07-64-87; Métro: Odéon.