Au Printemps is actually three major stores: Printemps de la Maison (home furnishings), Printemps de l'Homme (menswear -- six floors no less), and the brilliant Printemps de la Mode (fashion, fashion, fashion), which has everything from cutting-edge Helmut Lang to the teenagey Free. Be sure to check out the new beauty area, with the Nuxe spa, hairdressers, and seemingly every beauty product known to man under one roof. Fashion shows are held on Tuesday (all year) and Friday (April-October) at 10 AM under the cupola on the seventh floor of La Mode and are free. (Reservations can be made in advance by calling 01-42-82-63-17; tickets can also be obtained on the day of the show at the service desk on the first floor.) Métro: Havre Caumartin, Opéra, and RER: Auber.