Chanel is helmed by svelte Karl Lagerfeld, who is now so skinny his ears look fleshy but whose collections are increasingly vibrant. The historic center is at the rue Cambon boutique, where Chanel once perched high up on the mirrored staircase watching her audience's reactions to her collection debuts. Great investments include all of Coco's favorites: the perfectly tailored tweed suit, a lean, soigné black dress, a quilted bag with a gold chain, a camellia brooch. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt. Other location: 31 rue Cambon, 1, Louvre/Tuileries, PHONE: 01-42-86-28-00; Métro: Tuileries.