On one of Paris's oldest streets, across from the ancient St-Julien-le-Pauvre church, this sunny yellow, rather formal restaurant is a source for outstanding Spanish food. The seasonal all-tapas menu is tempting at EUR36 per person, but that would mean missing out on what must be the city's finest paella (EUR18 per person, but at least two people must order the same version): saffron with seafood, inky squid, or Valencia-style with rabbit, chicken and vegetables. Finish up with the custardy crème Catalan accompanied by a glass of muscatel. Reservations essential. Métro: St-Michel.