Chef-owner Marcel Baudis's take on the cuisine of his native southwestern France is original and delicious, and service here is effusive -- qualities that will help you overlook the out-of-the-way location and out-of-date design. The menu changes with the seasons: you might come across a scallop brochette with vegetable rémoulade in a truffle vinaigrette or the chef's own take on aïoli, with all kinds of fish and vegetables. Most people opt for the EUR45 prix-fixe menu, which includes wine. The restaurant, in the rebuilt Bercy district, is a bit hard to find, so head out with your map. Métro: Dugommier.