Designed for serious eaters, this small, buzzing bistro serves a six-course dinner menu for EUR32 (there's no à la carte) that changes daily. You might find white-bean soup, rouget (red mullet) fillets with red peppers, or a roasted pear with cinnamon ice cream -- don't expect miniportions. At lunch there's a shorter, equally good prix-fixe. With a strong list of fairly priced wines, your bill can stay comfortably low, but if you're feeling broke, the restaurant's casual wine bar across the street, with its country buffet and farmhouse-style seating, is an ideal runner-up. Reservations essential. Métro: Balard.