In this split-level, dark-wood bistro between Bastille and République, young chef Rodolphe Paquin applies a disciplined creativity to earthy French regional dishes. The menu changes regularly, but typical are a salad of haricots verts (string beans) topped with tender slices of squid, scallops on a bed of diced pumpkin, and old-fashioned desserts like custard with tiny madeleine cakes. The wine list is very good, too, with bargains like a Cheverny from the Loire Valley for EUR17. Reservations essential. Métro: Filles du Calvaire.