The theaterlike setting -- burgundy velvet curtains, framed photos of Molière plays -- gives this little restaurant a look that's both elegant and low-key. Owners Maggie and Michel Guillaumin, whose son now runs the kitchen, serve classic French cooking with a daring twist; look for braised pork cheek on a Szechuan pepper sablé with apple sauce and pickled onions, or sea bream with vanilla-flavored honey sauce and fennel with mint and olive oil. The popular, regularly changing menu Molière is an excellent value at EUR33, offering a choice of six starters, six mains (three meat and three fish), and six desserts. Wines are well chosen and fairly priced, and the house foie gras is available in jars to take home. Métro: Palais-Royal.