Victor Hugo could stride in and still recognize this place -- in his day, as now, a contender for the title of most beautiful restaurant in Paris. Originally built in 1784, set in the arcades of the Palais-Royal, it has welcomed everyone from Napoléon to Colette to Jean Cocteau -- nearly every seat bears a plaque commemorating a famous patron. The mirrored ceiling and early-19th-century glass paintings of goddesses and muses create an air of restrained seduction. Foodies as well as the fashionable gather here to enjoy chef Guy Martin's unique blend of sophistication and rusticity. He hails from Savoie, so you'll find lake fish and mountain cheeses on the menu alongside such luxurious dishes as foie gras-stuffed ravioli in a truffle-cream emulsion. For dessert try the house specialty, palet aux noisettes (meringue cake with milk-chocolate mousse, hazelnuts, and caramel ice cream). If you can't spring for the extravagant à la carte menu or the 10-course, EUR250 menu plaisir, try the lunchtime prix fixe for EUR75. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Métro: Palais-Royal.