One of the few independently owned brasseries remaining in Paris, Le Grand Colbert, with its globe lamps and ceiling moldings, feels grand yet not overpolished -- old theater posters still line the walls. It attracts a wonderfully Parisian mix of elderly lone diners, business lunchers, tourists, and couples who come for enormous seafood platters, duck foie gras with Sauternes jelly, and steak tartare. Whet your appetite with one of the "unjustly forgotten" aperitifs, such as bitter Salers or sweet Lillet Blanc. It's best to stick to classics, as this is what the kitchen does best. Finish with profiteroles (choux pastry filled with ice cream and smothered in hot chocolate sauce) or a fluffy chocolate mousse. Reservations essential. Métro: Bourse.