The massive flower arrangement at the entrance proclaims the no-holds-barred luxury that is on offer here. Painted powder blue, with stucco medallions worked into the ceiling trim, this beautiful though staid room makes a fitting stage set for chef Philippe Legendre. Formerly a legend at Taillevent, he is clearly thriving in these kitchens. Occasionally, the luxe menu (line-caught turbot with pumpkin-and-grapefruit marmalade, a licorice-infused pear cube with Szechuan pepper ice cream) is brought back down to earth by such selections as grouse and haggis in an aged Scotch whiskey sauce. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Métro: George V.