After a rapid ascent at his own nouvelle-wave bistro that led to his renown as one of the more inventive young chefs in Paris, Eric Frechon became head chef at the Bristol, that home-away-from-home of billionaires and power brokers. Frechon uses one of the grandest pantries in Paris to create masterworks -- say, eel meunière (in butter and lemon) with a frothy garlic bouillon -- that never stray too far away from the comfort-food tastes found in bistro cooking. No wonder his tables are so coveted. Though the two dining rooms are impeccable -- an oval oak-paneled one for fall and winter and a marble-floor pavilion overlooking the courtyard garden for spring and summer -- they provide few clues to help the world-weary traveler determine which city this might be. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Métro: Miromesnil.