Christophe Beaufront belongs to a generation of gifted bistro chefs who have rejected the pressure-cooker world of haute cuisine for something more personal and democratic. The result: a lot of delighted customers, even if the restaurant is closed three days a week. The three-course prix-fixe costs EUR28; there's also a more elaborate menu on Tuesday and Thursday for EUR35. Typical of his market-inspired cooking is the pot-au-feu de cochon aux épices, with spiced pork standing in for the usual beef. Homemade desserts and a good-value wine list round off a truly satisfying experience; children get an especially good welcome here. Reservations essential. Métro: Place d'Italie.