Chef Christophe Dié stepped into the clogs of Eric Lecerf, a Joël Robuchon lieutenant; Dié quickly hit his stride with offerings such as spider crab served in its shell with anise jelly and fennel cream and a refined steak au poivre (steak with pepper sauce) flambéed in cognac. The service and wine list are superb; the dining room takes a cue from the '30s with star appliqués on the walls and a checkerboard carpet. The EUR55 prix-fixe lunch menu, including mineral water, wine, and coffee, is a notably good value. Métro: Madeleine.