Breton-born Alain Passard, one of the most respected chefs in Paris, famously shocked the French culinary world by declaring that he was bored with meat and fish. Though his vegetarianism is more theoretical than practical -- L'Arpège still caters to fish and poultry eaters -- he does cultivate his own vegetables outside Paris, which are zipped into the city by high-speed train. His dishes elevate the humblest vegetables to sublime heights: roasted beets with aged balsamic vinegar, leeks with black truffles, black radishes, and cardoon with Parmigiano Reggiano. Fish dishes such as turbot cooked at a very low temperature for three hours are also extraordinary. Whether this justifies the shocking prices depends on how much disposable income you have to flambé. Reservations essential. Métro: Varenne.