This minuscule storefront painted white and decorated with enlargements of old sepia postcards of Paris is the very model of the contemporary bistros making waves in Paris. This one's claim to fame is chef Pierre Jay, who trained at La Tour d'Argent. His first-rate three-course menu for EUR30 (you can also order à la carte) tempts with such original dishes as scallops pan-fried with oyster mushrooms or a langoustine risotto. Just as enticing are the desserts, such as a superb feuillantine au citron -- caramelized pastry leaves filled with lemon cream and lemon slices -- and a boozy baba au rhum. With friendly waiters, service all weekend, and a small but well-chosen wine list, L'Ardoise would be perfect if it weren't often crowded and noisy. Reservations essential. Métro: Concorde.