Émile Zola, George Sand, and Victor Hugo were regulars, and the restaurant's mirrors still bear diamond scratches from the days when mistresses didn't take jewels at face value. It's hard not to fall in love with this 17th-century Seine-side town house whose warren of intimate, boiserie-graced salons breathes history. The latest chef, Alain Hacquard, has found the right track with a daring (for Paris) spice-infused menu: his lobster, Dublin Bay prawn, and crayfish bisque is flavored with Szechuan pepper and lemon. Game is prominent in the fall, with a selection of southwestern wines to accompany dishes like Scottish grouse. For the ultimate romantic meal, reserve one of the legendary private salons where anything could happen (and probably has). The EUR30 "business menu," served at lunch in the beamed dining room overlooking the Seine, is a great value. Reservations essential. Métro: St-Michel.