If you loved Yves Cambdeborde's southwestern France-inflected cooking at La Régalade, head to this tavernlike Basque restaurant taken over in 2003 by Cambdeborde's longtime second-in-command, Stéphane Jego. If his style is even more regional than Camdeborde's, he uses the same suppliers and has a similar knack for injecting basic ingredients with sophistication. You can go heavy (piquillo peppers stuffed with salt cod paste, duck confit with potatoes fried in goose fat) or light (scallops topped with shavings of ewe's-milk cheese, red mullet with olive oil and couscous). Métro: Métro or RER: Invalides.