A rare Parisian bistro that refuses to change, the Ambassade claims one of the city's great restaurant characters: the maître d', with his handlebar mustache and gravelly voice. Settle into the cast-in-amber dining room in this ancient Marais house to try dishes from the Auvergne, a region in central France. Lighter dishes are available, such as turbot with fennel, but it would be missing the point not to indulge in a heaping serving of lentils in goose fat with bacon or in Salers beef in red wine sauce with aligot (mashed potatoes with cheese). The Auvergnat wines come with appetizing descriptions, but don't expect anything remarkable from this (justifiably) little-known wine region. Métro: Rambuteau.