Beyond the wonderful food (the current chef is Jean-François Sicallac), many factors conspire to make a meal at this venerable landmark memorable: the extraordinary wine cellar, considerate service, and, of course, that privileged vista across the Seine to Notre-Dame. If the price of an à la carte meal makes you pause, you can't go wrong with the EUR70 lunch. You'll even be entitled to succulent slices of one of the restaurant's numbered ducks (the great duck slaughter began in 1919 and is now well past the millionth mallard, as your numbered certificate will attest). The most celebrated dish, canard au sang (duck in a blood-based sauce), is available à la carte or for a EUR25 supplement. Don't get too daunted by the wine list -- more of a bible, really -- for with the help of one of the sommeliers you can splurge a little (about EUR80) and perhaps taste a rare vintage Burgundy. The lunch crowd is remarkably casual, while evenings are a more formal affair, attracting a mix of suited tycoons and smoochy couples. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. Métro: Cardinal Lemoine.