As the leading priest who marries bistro and nouvelle cookery -- who can resist his soup of lentils and pureed chestnuts ladled over a mound of foie gras? -- Yves Camdeborde has to satisfy the hordes who trek to the edge of town for three dinner sittings (and you still have to book at least two weeks ahead). The crowded, no-frills room evokes the dullest provinces, but the food is sensational: duck-confit ravioli in wine sauce, juicy roast capon with chestnuts, and a sharp, adult dessert of grapefruit in Campari jelly. Portions are small, but the country pâté that begins each meal will take the edge off your appetite. If you don't like feeling rushed, book the last seating, at 10:30 PM. Reservations essential. Métro: Alésia.