Though everyone talks about the "new Montmartre," exemplified by a wave of chic residents and throbbingly cool cafés and bars, it's good to know that the old Montmartre is alive and well at the untrendy-and-proud-of-it La Mascotte. This old-fashioned café-brasserie is where you'll find neighborhood fixtures such as the drag queen Michou (of the nearby club Chez Michou). Loyalists come for the seafood platters, the excellent steak tartare, and the gossip around the comptoir up front. Métro: Abbesses.