The kitchen of this popular Provençal bistro near the Jardin du Luxembourg has been opened up so you can watch the cooks at work. Chef Gilles Ajuelos has an expert, loving hand with Mediterranean cuisine -- expect fine fish dishes; wonderful pastas, such as tagliatelle in pistou (basil and pine nuts) with wild mushrooms; and heartwarming main courses such as roast suckling pig and pieds et pacquets, a Provençal dish made with sheep's trotter and tripe that's worth trying at least once in a lifetime. Métro: Odéon; RER: Luxembourg.