Famed for its 1879 decor -- think Art Nouveau stained glass, La Bohème-ish street lamps hung with vintage hats -- this Belle Époque dazzler certainly lives up to its oft-quoted moniker, "the poor man's Maxim's." Look for smoked salmon, stuffed roast lamb, cassoulet, and, to finish, profiteroles or the coupe Julien (ice cream with cherries). The crowd here is lots of fun; this place has a strong following with the fashion crowd, so it's mobbed during the biannual fashion and fabric shows. The downside? Readers have complained about some lackluster dishes and even worse service (and the area is frankly not the safest in Paris). There's service until midnight, with a late-night menu for EUR21.50 from 10 PM. Métro: Strasbourg St-Denis.