This intimate if rather frilly restaurant where Joël Robuchon made his name serves brilliant food well away from the media spotlight. The best value is the lunch prix-fixe at EUR50, which entitles you to a generous meal with extras such as the sorbet trolley. The dinner prix-fixes at EUR95 and EUR130 also compare favorably with the offerings at other restaurants of Jamin's caliber. Benoît Guichard, Robuchon's second for many years, is a particularly marvelous saucier (sauce maker). The menu changes regularly, but Guichard favors dishes with a Mediterranean touch, such as sea bass with pistachios in fennel sauce and braised beef with cumin-scented carrots. The seasonal gratin of rhubarb with a red-fruit sauce makes an excellent dessert. Reservations essential. Métro: Iéna.