The eponymous chef here has won a lot of followers with her refined take on southwestern French cooking from the lands around Albi and Toulouse. You know it's not going to be la même chanson -- the same old song -- as soon as you see the contemporary Tse & Tse tableware, and her intriguingly modern touch comes through in such dishes as a sublime duck foie gras confit served with an exotic-fruit chutney or a blowout of roast wild duck stuffed with foie gras and truffles. Expect to spend a hefty EUR350 for two à la carte upstairs, but there is a lunch menu at EUR58. The livelier downstairs bistro offers similar food in (even) smaller tapas-style portions -- a series of 10 tiny dishes costs EUR53 per person, or EUR73 per person with pre-selected wines included. Métro: Sèvres Babylone.