The L-shape dining room of this formerly fusty restaurant has been entirely revamped, with deep-purple banquettes and more natural light, to better reflect the chef's pared-down classic style. Besson has mastered a superb French repertoire; his subtle creativity shows in dishes such as a Bresse chicken terrine with foie gras and oyster flan. In winter his game menu is probably the best in town: try the perfectly executed lièvre à la royale, braised hare in a luscious truffle-and-foie gras sauce (truffles are also a specialty here). For dessert sample the distinctive confit of fennel with vanilla ice cream. Other pluses include an excellent wine cellar and a good-value EUR55 lunch menu. Jacket required. Métro: Les Halles.