A favorite with politicians, this discreetly lighted, red-hued bistro serves the type of hearty, no-compromise food cherished by French heads of state: veal kidney brochette served with fluffy mousseline potatoes; one of the city's most authentic renditions of tête de veau; and quenelles (pike-perch dumplings) and sausages from the famed Lyon charcutier Bobosse. The prix-fixe menus are democratic, starting at EUR18 for lunch, EUR28 for dinner. Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés.