Between the red lights of Pigalle and the Butte Montmartre, this cozy bistro with red walls and candlelight hits the romance nail on the head. In autumn and winter game comes into play in long-simmered French dishes -- choose from marcassin (young wild boar), venison, and pheasant. Regulars can't resist the crème brûlée and the raspberry tart. Prices have crept up, but Chez Toinette is still a rare find for this neighborhood. Métro: Pigalle.