In this bastion of Burgundian cooking, the vintage '30s decor is almost completely intact. The food is pleasantly old-fashioned and substantial, like oeufs en meurette à la bourguignonne (poached eggs in red-wine sauce with bacon); sole Tante Louise, in which a steamed fillet comes with a mussel-based sauce; and melting chocolate cake with a fromage blanc sorbet. Of course, there's a nice selection of Burgundies, and service is prompt and professional for the well-dressed crowd. Reservations essential. Métro: Madeleine.