Just off the glitzy avenue Montaigne, Chez Savy exists in its own circa-1930s dimension, oblivious to the area's galloping fashionization. The Art Deco cream-and-burgundy interior looks blissfully intact (avoid the back room unless you're in a large group), and the waiters show not a trace of attitude. Fill up on rib-sticking specialties from the Auvergne in central France -- lentil salad with bacon, foie gras (prepared on the premises), perfectly charred lamb with featherlight shoestring frites -- order a celebratory bottle of Mercurey and feel smug that you've found this place. Set menus are available for EUR19.50 at lunch and EUR23.50 at dinner, but it's worth splashing out on the more exciting à la carte dishes. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.