Effusive chef Thierry Breton has become a magnet with his wonderful market-inspired cooking, despite the out-of-the-way location near Gare du Nord. The prix-fixe-only menu changes constantly, but you'll almost invariably find the Breton specialties kig ha farz (a robust pork stew with a bread stuffing) and kouing aman (the butteriest cake imaginable). In winter don't miss the game dishes (for a supplement) such as the surprisingly mild-tasting boar chops, served in a cast-iron pot with tiny potatoes and roasted garlic. The cheese course, served on a slate, is outstanding. There is a long, sociable table in the vaulted cellar. Reservations essential. Métro: Gare du Nord.