This calm, comfortable spot is a great place to discover the little-known cooking of the Jura and Franche-Comté regions of eastern France. Though sturdy, this cuisine appeals to modern palates, too, as you'll discover with the montbéliard, a smoked sausage served with potato salad, or the veal sweetbreads with morel mushrooms. Also try one of the free-range chicken dishes, either in a sauce of vin jaune -- a dry wine from the region that resembles sherry -- or baked in cream and cheese. The walnut meringue is sinfully wonderful, and there's a regional selection of Arbois wines. Métro: Odéon.