If you were to ask Parisian bankers, aristocrats, or antiques dealers to name their favorite bistro, many would choose Georges. The traditional fare, written in authentically hard-to-decipher handwriting, is good -- chicken liver terrine, curly endive salad with bacon and a poached egg, steak with béarnaise -- and the atmosphere is better. In the dining room a white-clothed stretch of tables lines the mirrored walls; attentive waiters sweep efficiently up and down its length. Order one of the wines indicated in colored ink on the menu and you can drink as much or as little of it as you want (and be charged accordingly); there's also a separate wine list that has grander bottles. Métro: Sentier.