Theater people and politicians fill the moleskin banquettes of this venerable bistro; the frosted glass lamps and amber walls put everyone in a good light. Try the very good boeuf bourguignon or the roasted saddle of lamb with artichokes, perhaps with a mille-feuille or tarte fine (a crisp-crust fruit tart) for dessert. The wine list is excellent but expensive. Métro: Duroc.