Opened in 1870 -- when Alsace-Lorraine was taken over by Germany and its chefs decamped to the capital -- this outpost of Alsatian cuisine remains a cozy cocoon filled with stuffed animal heads, antique fixtures fashioned from barrels, and folk-art paintings. The food is gemütlich, too: coq au Riesling, omelets with Muenster cheese, onion tarts, and choucroute garnie (sauerkraut studded with ham, bacon, and pork loin -- one variant is made with smoked haddock). Pots of cumin seeds (for sprinkling on Muenster) accompany the salt and pepper shakers on the communal tables, and in warm weather the crowds move out to the terrace overlooking the Seine and Notre-Dame. Reservations essential. Métro: Pont Marie.