In a studied environment that might have sprung from the pages of Elle Decor, this bistro entices with food that perfectly expresses the countercurrents of the Parisian culinary landscape. The prix-fixe-only menu (EUR30 at lunch, EUR41 at dinner) is split into two sections: "tradition" and "discovery." Chef Vincent Lourdelle's menu changes every two weeks -- in winter you might choose duck leg "nougat" with foie gras and caramel cake made with salted butter. Reservations essential. Métro: Pasteur.