For Alain Ducasse it's not enough to run three of the world's most expensive restaurants (in Paris, Monte Carlo, and New York) and an ever-expanding string of Spoon, Food & Wine fusion bistros. He also has a passion for the old-fashioned bistro, so he has resurrected this 1890s gem by appointing a terrific young chef to oversee the short, frequently changing menu of Lyonnais specialties. Dandelion salad with crisp potatoes, bacon, and silky poached egg, watercress soup poured over parsleyed frogs' legs, and a sophisticated rendition of coq au vin show he is no bistro dilettante. The decor hews to tradition too; there's a zinc bar, an antique coffee machine, and original turn-of-the-20th-century woodwork. Métro: Bourse.