This classy establishment off place Daumesnil -- well off the beaten tourist track but worth the trip -- is overseen by celebrated chef Alain Dutournier, whose wife runs the dining room. He does a refined take on the cuisine of Gascony -- a region renowned for its ham, foie gras, lamb, and duck. The lunch menu is excellent value at EUR36, though the à la carte options are more tempting. Most popular with the regulars are the surprisingly light cassoulet (all the meats are grilled before going into the pot) and a superb duck confit. You'll also find an ethereal dessert of raspberries, ice cream, and meringue. With some 875 wines and 100 Armagnacs to choose from, this is the place to splurge on something vintage. Métro: Daumesnil.