The prix-fixe menu (there's no à la carte) at this tried-and-true restaurant must be one of the best values in town, with a lunch menu for EUR20.50 and a second lunch menu and dinner menu for EUR25. Among the deftly prepared seasonal dishes are fricassee of joue de boeuf (beef cheeks), rabbit in mustard sauce with fresh tagliatelle, and plum clafoutis (a fruit flan). This is a great place to come if you're feeling cheesy, since it's locally famous for having one of the best plateaux de fromages (cheese plates) in Paris -- a giant wicker tray lands on the table and you help yourself. The lengthy, well-priced wine list is a connoisseur's dream. Reservations essential. Métro: Parmentier.