André le Letty, who polished his cooking technique at La Tour d'Argent, may dream up dishes such as pressed duck with red peppercorns and fresh cod with spices for his regularly changing menu, but he also has a fondness for old-faithfuls such as veal kidney with mustard sauce and prune clafoutis. The St-Joseph is a perfect choice from the interesting wine list. The menu is prix-fixe: EUR20 at lunch and EUR32 at dinner. Reservations essential. Métro: Les Gobelins.