You may need to set a steel trap outside his door to actually catch megastar chef Alain Ducasse in this kitchen -- he now has restaurants around the globe (and never cooks on weekends) -- but it would probably be worth the wait. The rosy rococo salons were updated by decorator Patrick Jouin, who draped metallic organza over the chandeliers and, in a symbolic move, made time stand still by stopping the clock. Overlooking the prettiest courtyard in Paris, this makes for a setting as delicious as Ducasse's roast lamb garnished with "crumbs" of dried fruit or Bresse chicken with white truffles. When you sample the bisque de homard (lobster bisque) or the pork belly, you know you are getting the real thing -- each is made from as many elements (shell, skin, juice, pan drippings) as possible and offers the absolute essence of the ingredients. At these prices the level of presentation -- there are few visual adornments on the plate -- could be enhanced. To be on the safe side, reserve three weeks in advance. Jacket required. Métro: Alma-Marceau.