William Ledeuil made his name at the popular Les Bouquinistes (a Guy Savoy baby bistro) before opening this pared-down contemporary bistro nearby. If the name isn't exactly inspired, the cooking shows unbridled creativity and a sense of fun: from a deliberately deconstructed menu featuring raw fish, soups, pastas, and à la plancha plates, expect dishes such as a chicken wing, broccoli, and artichoke soup with lemongrass or pork ribs with curry jus and white beans. Worldly eaters might find the flavors too subtle, but they are certainly adventurous for Paris. Not for those who are set in their ways, this restaurant changes its menu every month, and its art exhibit every three months; Ledeuil also gives cooking classes in the compact kitchen. Reservations essential. Métro: St-Michel.