Star chef Alain Ducasse's bistro may be the granddaddy of style-conscious restaurants around the Champs-Élysées, but its popularity shows no signs of waning. What draws the black-clad crowd are the playful, Asian- and American-inspired menu; the hypercool interior (white by day, plum by night); and the fact that it's so hard to get a dinner reservation. Fashion folk love this place for its many vegetable and pasta dishes and its irresistible desserts, particularly the TobleSpoon, a takeoff on Toblerone. If you've sampled the Spoon concept elsewhere in the world, don't expect the same here; each branch is tailored to a particular city's tastes, and what looks exotic in Paris (bagels and bubble-gum ice cream) might seem humdrum in New York. Reservations essential. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.