The word pinxo means "to pinch," which is how the food here is designed to be eaten -- often with your fingers and off your dining companion's plate. (Each dish is served in three portions to allow for sharing.) Alain Dutournier, who also runs the more formal Le Carré des Feuillants nearby, drew on his southwestern roots to create this welcoming modern spot in black, plum, and dark wood. Freed from the tyranny of the entrée-plat-dessert cycle, you can nibble your way through such mini-dishes as marinated herring with Granny Smith apple and horseradish, cold pipérade (spicy scrambled eggs with bell pepper) with fried ham, and squid cooked à la plancha (on a griddle) with ginger and chile peppers, then end, perhaps, with fresh pineapple and a piña colada sorbet. Métro: Tuileries.