Although young chef Sebastien Faré now mans the stoves, Petrossian still jangles with the wildly imaginative style of his predecessor, Philippe Conticini. Conticini keeps his hand in as a consultant, which is good news for the restaurant's gauche caviar (luxe-loving Rive Gauche Socialist) clientele. Smoked fish and caviar star, but other winning concoctions are risotto with squid ink, porcini, or panfried foie gras and a Moroccan-inspired salad with crisp Dublin Bay prawns. Don't miss the "drinkable perfumes," an alluring series of vividly colored herbal infusions; served cold in shot glasses, they're meant for palate-cleansing. Prix-fixe options are plentiful; hardest to resist is the chemins de la tentation chef's menu at EUR107. Reservations essential. Métro: La Tour-Maubourg, Invalides.