Celebrated New York-based Alsatian chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten (think Vong, Mercer Kitchen, and Jean-Georges) set up shop in this strategic neighborhood to much fanfare, as this is his first restaurant in France. Put together with deceptively simple raw materials -- burnt pine and stone offset with African masks -- the dining room makes a soigné if sometimes noisy arena for well-traveled dishes such as truffled pizza, spiced sea bream, and sweet chestnut soufflé. This is also a great place for a breakfast meeting over a plate of buttery pastries by star pâtissier Pierre Hermé. Reservations essential. Métro: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.